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A 100ml liquid cleaner for heated tobacco devices, used with a swab or cloth for deeper cleaning than a dry brush achieves.
Before anything else, we’d rather be straight with you about where this sits, because a lot of listings aren’t.
Official IQOS guidance is unambiguous: never use cleaning agents, solvents, chemicals, volatiles, compressed air or any liquids on the holder, the cap or the cleaning tool. Their intended routine is the cleaning tool followed by cleaning sticks, and nothing else.
In practice, a lot of long-term owners use an alcohol-based liquid with a swab for the heavier residue that builds up around the base of the heating chamber over months, particularly on older devices. It’s widely done and widely discussed, and it works.
Both of those things are true at once, so here’s our position: this is a third-party product, it is not part of the official routine, and using it is your decision rather than something we’d tell you to do. If your device is under warranty and you’d rather not risk it, use the official method. If your device is older, out of warranty, and the dry routine has stopped getting it properly clean, this is what people reach for.
Never pour or drip it into the device. Apply it to a swab or a cloth, not to the chamber.
Barely damp, not wet. Excess liquid reaching the electronics is the failure mode to avoid, and it isn’t recoverable.
Let the device cool completely before you start, and let it dry completely before you use it again.
Don’t touch the ceramic blade with anything abrasive. Philip Morris says not to clean the blade at all; if you do work near it, use a non-metallic swab and no pressure.
Never immerse any part of the device.
The exterior is a different matter and much lower risk. Wiping the body, the cap and a pocket charger with a barely damp cloth is straightforward, and oil absorbing sheets handle fingerprints and grease on the outside without liquid at all.
The dry routine still comes first. Brush with the cleaning tool, finish with a cleaning stick, and only reach for liquid if residue remains after that.
If you’re cleaning after every pack of 20 sticks as recommended, you may never need this at all. It exists for devices that have gone a long time without proper cleaning, which is a situation better avoided than solved.
Our full cleaning guide covers the standard routine.
Ceramic blade devices: IQOS ORIGINALS DUO, ORIGINALS ONE, IQOS 3 DUO, 3 MULTI, 2.4 Plus, and blade-based Lambda T3 and CC devices.
Pointless on ILUMA and ILUMA i, which need no cleaning at all. If you’ve reached the stage of buying liquid cleaner for a blade device, an induction device removes the entire problem rather than making it easier, which is worth weighing.
In stock in Abu Dhabi with delivery inside 1 hour across the city, and same-day to Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Ras Al Khaimah, Fujairah and Umm Al Quwain. Cash on delivery available, free delivery above 200 AED.
No. It’s a third-party cleaner. Philip Morris’s own guidance is not to use liquids or cleaning agents on the holder, cap or cleaning tool.
That’s your call. Many long-term owners do, on older out-of-warranty devices where the dry routine no longer gets the chamber properly clean. If your device is under warranty, the official method is the safer choice.
To a swab or cloth, never directly into the device. Barely damp rather than wet, and let everything dry fully before use.
Philip Morris says not to clean the blade at all. If you work near it, use a non-metallic swab and no pressure.
Probably not. Cleaning after every pack of 20 sticks with the tool and cleaning sticks usually keeps a device in good condition on its own.
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